Bathinda to Fazilka: A 2,000-Year-Old Fort and the Border at Sunset
Razia Sultan was held captive here, and 2,000 years later I watched the sun set…
Patiala: A Dying Art, 22 Pleats, and a City’s 261st Birthday
Just two shops in the whole city still practise a dying brass-polishing craft, one day…
Bumthang: A Lake That Burns and Bhutan’s Cultural Heartland
A lake that isn’t a lake, a barter economy that lasted until 1968, and Bhutan’s…
Punakha to Trongsa: Two Rivers, One Crane, and Bhutan’s Largest Dzong
No power lines to protect endangered cranes, a river confluence fortress, and Bhutan’s largest Dzong,…
Tiger’s Nest: 245 Steps, a Dizzy Spell, and a Festival
About 800 steps to Tiger’s Nest, a hot stone bath that didn’t go to plan,…
Bhutan: The Snow That Cancelled Haa Valley
Rain cancelled Tiger’s Nest, snow nearly cancelled Chele La Pass too, and Haa Valley’s twin…
